Getting in
Most terraced houses have no side gate. Materials come through the hallway and kitchen or along a ginnel or back lane. We plan the route, protect floors and door frames, and cut slabs outside where we can. In very tight spots, smaller paving units are easier to carry and fit.
Respecting the house
Victorian terraces were built with low damp-proof courses, and some have none at all. Raising the yard level is a common cause of damp. We keep the patio surface at least 150 millimetres below the damp-proof course, never cover or block airbricks and leave a gap or gravel margin against walls where needed.
Where the water goes
Small yards often drain to a single gully near the back door. We set falls so water heads there and away from the house. If there's no drain, a channel or a small soakaway can help, or permeable paving can let water soak through.
Light and shade
High walls and rear offshoots can leave a yard shady for much of the day. Lighter paving bounces light around. Porcelain and denser stones resist the green growth that shade encourages.
Making it feel bigger
Large-format slabs laid with neat, narrow joints can make a small space feel larger. Raised beds along the walls add planting without losing floor space. In a long, narrow garden, two smaller seating areas linked by a path often work better than paving the whole length.
Heritage
Much of York sits in conservation areas, but a patio in a private back yard rarely needs permission. Listed buildings are different: alterations, even outside, can need listed building consent, so check with City of York Council.